Los Beneficios de los Probióticos para la Piel

Presentes en los yogures, en los complementos alimenticios…. ¡ahora se utilizan en cosmética!. Los pre, pro y postbióticos, también llamados simbióticos, son los últimos ingredientes activos que prometen una piel sana. ¿Cómo actúan y cuál es su interés?.

Pre-, pro- o post-bióticos, ¿qué significa eso?. “Los prebióticos son azúcares complejos (como la inulina o el zumo de yacón) derivados de frutas y verduras, que alimentan a las bacterias buenas de la piel y les permiten reequilibrar el microbioma (entorno de la flora cutánea)”, explica Marie Drago, doctora en farmacia y creadora de la marca Gallinée.

Los postbióticos (ácido láctico, omega-3 y 6…), por otro lado, son producidos por los probióticos y constituyen un ambiente beneficioso para su desarrollo”.

En cuanto a los que se encuentran en cosmética, “son extractos de probióticos intestinales (o microorganismos), que actúan sobre las bacterias buenas de la piel”, dice Michel Bohbot, fundador de Synbionyme.

Por el momento, sólo se han estudiado los efectos de estos probióticos (lactobacillus, bifidus…) y han mostrado un efecto beneficioso, especialmente en la inflamación de la piel.

¿Cuál es el propósito de la microbiota?

Compuesta por varios miles de millones de microorganismos, la microbiota cutánea (o flora) protege contra las agresiones externas. Cuando las bacterias patógenas intentan asentarse, los probióticos cutáneos, que son organismos microscópicos vivos (levaduras, virus, bacterias….), producen sustancias tóxicas para destruirlos.

Si las bacterias logran asentarse de todos modos, desequilibran la microbiota y la piel muestra signos de inflamación (enrojecimiento, irritación, sequedad), pero también patologías como el acné o el eccema. Es para mantener un buen equilibrio de la piel que los pro, pre y postbióticos están integrados en algunos cosméticos.

Los probióticos preservan la juventud

Los probióticos son sobre todo antiinflamatorios, refuerzan el sistema inmunitario y la función de barrera de la piel. Sin embargo, sabemos que una de las razones del envejecimiento prematuro es el “envejecimiento inflamatorio”, este estado inflamatorio crónico y silencioso de las células, ligado a nuestro estilo de vida, la contaminación….

Algunas marcas comprendieron rápidamente los beneficios de estos ingredientes activos: Estée Lauder incorporó probióticos (lactobacilos y bífidos) en sus tratamientos de Advanced Night Repair hace varios años. Estos últimos se combinan siempre con otros principios activos como el ácido hialurónico o los péptidos con una acción antiedad dirigida.

Están luchando contra los granos

Demasiado sebo y de mala calidad conduce a la inflamación causada por la bacteria c.acné. Pero “ella no es la única responsable. Es cuando se rompe el equilibrio con la epidermis de la bacteria del estafilococo cuando se produce el acné”, explica la profesora Brigitte Dréno, dermatóloga del Hospital Universitario de Nantes.

Por lo tanto, es posible mejorar la eficacia de la atención y evitar las recurrencias combinando los simbióticos con los tratamientos tradicionales, ya que refuerzan las capacidades de esta bacteria. Este es el caso de Effaclar Duo+ de La Roche-Posay o Medacnyl de Synbionyme.

La gama (Im)perfection de Pulpe de Vie también contiene un prebiótico, reequilibrante Bioecolia. “En lugar de desinfectar la piel para eliminar la bacteria c.acné, parece más lógico favorecer a las bacterias buenas, que la reequilibrarán”, observa Marie Drago.

Regulan los brotes

Un estudio publicado en “Nature” muestra que la dermatitis atópica (eczema) está estrechamente relacionada con el desarrollo excesivo de estafilococo áureo en la microbiota. Para contrarrestar esto, algunas marcas han creado complejos pre y postbióticos personalizados.

Así, en Avène, el I-modulia es un principio activo derivado de la microflora presente en el agua termal del mismo nombre. Se utiliza en los productos XeraCalm A.D. para regular la flora microbiana de la piel atópica.

Al igual que Aqua Posae Filiformis, que proviene de una bacteria cultivada en las aguas termales de La Roche-Posay y que se encuentra con un prebiótico natural en el tratamiento Lipikar AP+.

Limitan los malos olores

Otro campo interesante para los probióticos, desodorantes. De hecho, el olor a sudor se debe al desarrollo de bacterias que degradan la grasa en el sudor cuando entra en contacto con la microbiota en las axilas.

Pascale de Lomas, co-creadora de Daydry, explica: “Hemos desarrollado un complejo de probióticos y enzimas que detiene la proliferación de bacterias y descompone las moléculas olorosas. Una manera completamente natural de gestionar esta preocupación universal, sin el uso de aceites esenciales o sales de aluminio”.

Le recomendamos que:

Elixir antiedad

Tres prebióticos (inulina, zumo de yacón y alfa-glucano), dos probióticos (lactobacilos y lactococos) y un postbiótico (ácido láctico) reequilibran la piel y combaten el estrés oxidativo y la microinflamación.

Tratamiento del acné

La Roche-Posay ha añadido un prebiótico cultivado en su agua termal a los principios activos de su principal referencia antiacné (ceramidas, niacinamida, zinc). Como resultado, este tratamiento ofrece efectividad contra la recurrencia de granos.

Desodorante natural

Existen roll-on que obtienen su eficacia antiolor de sus principios activos probióticos (lactobacilos y saccharomyces). Con fórmulas enriquecidas con hidrolato de bambú protector e hidratante.

Bálsamo especial para pieles atópicas

En este tratamiento cosmético estéril, un prebiótico obtenido por biotecnología, I-modulia se combina con el agua termal de Avène y los lípidos que restauran la barrera cutánea.

Suero completo

El complejo simbiótico (azúcar extraído de semillas de trigonella, aceite de linaza, extracto de membrana de levadura modificada) y el ácido hialurónico están al servicio de una piel más firme y radiante.

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